Spider Mites- How to eliminate them
July 9, 2008
Spider mites are a bane to indoor gardeners and knowing their life cycle is very useful in assisting you with eliminating them. Spider mites lay eggs when they are threatened with death. The best naturally occuring active ingredient to kill them is Pyrethrum (Pyrethrin) this active ingredient is extracted from the Chrysanthemum Flower and is the oldest natural insecticide known to man. Pyrethrin is a CONTACT kill product only ( must contact the pest to kill the pest) and has no residual activity-thus it is safe to use up to the day of harvest on all food crops.
The highest level of this active ingredient in the product that you chose to use is recommended. Insecticidal soaps which are recommended in a lot of articles and blogs are NOT EFFECTIVE-they contain the lowest amount of this active ingredient and contain high levels of soap which is very Phyto-toxic to your plants= they cause more damage than good.
Treating your plants with a very high quality pyrethrin based product will give you excellent results with the least amount of product used saving you time and money.
Spider Mites when treated with anything to kill them immediately lay eggs-this is there evolutionary defense. An indoor growing environment with high temperatures and humidity is the ideal environment for spider mites to procreate. In this environment they can go through a entire life cycle in 4-7 days. so to successfully eliminate them you must treat your plants every 3-4 days for 3 complete life cycles.
The best eradication method is to treat the underside of the foliage with a Plant Spray containing a high concentration of Pyrethrin .20% or higher. After treating the underside of the foliage it is time to Fumigate or Fog the growing area with a Total Release Bomb- Doktor Doom makes two excellent products for this application (Doktor Doom Botanic’s Insecticide Plant Spray-Canada, Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout Plant Spray -USA and Doktor Doom Total Release Foggers (Fumigators)- Canada or USA. repeat this application every 3-4 days for 3 cycles.
Additional growing area tips: Remove all dead foliage daily, do not allow pets or visitors into the growing area (spider mites are hitch hikers and can attach to all sorts of surfaces from the hair on your arm to the sleeve of your shirt) always use the same clothing for doing maintenance in your growing area and keep it laundered regularly in hot water and dried in a hot dryer. Be certain that the area that you are drawing fresh air from is either treated with Pyrethrin regularly or use very fine screens on your intake ventilation systems. Most infestations in indoor rooms occur near this source of fresh air! Cleanliness is very important- keep your growing area clean and free of debris daily.
Be certain that the source of your cuttings is a “Clean Source” to assist you with this treat your cuttings with the suggested Plant Spray from a distance of about 3-4 feet away-spray a mist in the air and allow it to land on all surfaces of your cuttings-do not soak the foliage- a light mist every 3-4 days is all that is required.
By following the above application and indoor growing area tips you should be well on your way to a spider mite free environment and produce excellent crops ready for consumption
Hydroponic Technology Used in WWII to Feed Troops
May 28, 2008
This article is an excerpt from the complete set of Hydroponics Online lesson plans.
During the late 1940’s, a hydroponic method was developed by Robert B. and Alice P. Withrow, working at Purdue University. Their system alternately flooded and drained a container holding gravel and the plant roots. This provided the plants with the optimum amount of both nutrient solution and air.
During World War II the shipping of fresh vegetables overseas was not practical and remote islands where troops were stationed were not a place where they could be grown in the soil. Hydroponic technology was tested as a viable source for fresh vegetables during this time.
In 1945, the US Air Force built one of the first large hydroponic farms on Ascension Island in the South Atlantic, followed by additional hydroponic farms on the islands of Iwo Jima and Okinawa in the Pacific, using crushed volcanic rock as the growing medium and, on Wake Island west of Hawaii, using gravel as the growing medium. These hydroponic farms helped fill the need for a supply of fresh vegetables for troops stationed in these areas.
During this time, large hydroponic facilities were established in Habbaniya, Iraq and Bahrain in the Persian Gulf, to support troops stationed in those areas near large oil reserves.
The American Army and Royal Air Force built hydroponic units at various military bases to help feed troops. In 1952, the US Army’s special hydroponics branch grew over 8,000,000 lbs. of fresh produce for military demand. Also established at this time was one of the world’s largest hydroponic farms in Chofu, Japan, consisting of 22 hectares.
Following the success of hydroponics in WWII, several large commercial hydroponic farms were built in the US, most of which were in Florida. Due to poor construction and management, many of these farms were unsuccessful.
This article is an excerpt from the complete set of Hydroponics Online lesson plans.
Simple DC System for Hydroponic Watering
May 8, 2008
By James Dunn
With today’s technology, a simple watering system for hydroponics can be built with a battery and direct current pump. This makes setting up a hydroponic garden possible in remote areas such as deserted islands, deserts, mountain or forested areas far from the electrical power grid system.
A water pump is considered crucial to a hydroponic system unless you intend to hand water the plants once a day. Using a water pump reduces risk associated with hand labor and allows the garden owner some freedom from work and worry. A hand watering system can also be boring if it is desired to water the plants four times a day. The system should be automatic and allow the garden owner to leave for three or four day periods and let the garden continue to grow and flourish.
When you use electric devices, pumps, timers and lights, there are two basic choices, AC or alternating current or DC direct current.
AC is the 110 volt power we have in our homes. It is usually delivered through power lines that deliver the power to the home and costs money from the local supplier.
DC power is the type of power we have in our cars and boats where electricity is delivered by a battery. In cars this is most often a 12 volt battery.
There are lights, timers, fans, and pumps designed for a 12 volt DC battery system. These items can usually be found in a local hydroponic store, a marine supply store, an auto parts store or a store specializing in aquarium equipment.
Pumps – The most economical submersible pumps for hydroponic systems are the bilge pumps ranging in costs from 20 to 40 dollars. They are used to pump excess water out of boats and can be attached to a timer. There is also a more expensive DC pump used to pump water in RV plumbing systems. It costs about $80.00 and can be outside the water tank.
Timers – There are many DC timers available from aquarium supply stores and a few have their own battery power supplies. One of the best ius a 12 volt seven day programmable timer, usually costing about $60.00. This timer can be set to run the pump a few times a day for a set number of minutes.
Other DC devices – There are also DC light bulbs, heaters to heat air or water, and fans to circulate air. All of these devices are available through recreational vehicle supply stores although most require quite a bit of energy to run and are expensive to purchase.
Our car batteries are 12 volt batteries called cranking batteries that retain enough charge to start the engine. Once the car engine is started the alternator continues to keep the battery charged and supplies power to the DC electrical devices in the car. The power is stored by the battery and if any lights or electrical devices are left on when the car is not running, they will use battery power and perhaps reduce the power in the battery so low that it will no longer start the car.
There is another type of 12 volt battery called a deep cycle battery. These batteries are usually built differently and can withstand being drained low more often. While a cranking battery may only be effective after being drained 30 times, a deep cycle might be able to continue after being drained 100 times or more. Deep cycle batteries are used in solar power systems, or systems built for boats and recreational vehicles.
A 12 volt deep cycle battery is used as the basic source of power. One battery is sufficient for a simple system, but there is a wide range of effectiveness of deep cycle batteries. When purchasing a battery, there should be a rating called amp hours, and for many this is about 100 amp hours. That means the battery can be used for 100 hours to power a device that uses one amp per hour of operation.
The Pump Battery System
Each DC electrical device uses a number of amps (or current) per hour. A power hungry device like a heater or refrigerator might use five or six amps per hour, and a DC light might use a single amp per hour.
The DC pump used in your system uses about 1.5 to two amps per hour of operation. In this time these pumps will deliver a certain amount of gallons per hour, usually about 400 to 500 gallons. A two amp pump can be run for 50 hours before draining a 100 amp hour battery. The DC pumps have different levels of height they can reach, but the typical bilge pump will pump water four feet high. A system designed where the reserve tank is three feet below the system and the watering tank is six inches above will allow for efficient operation.
That is of course, the theory. In reality, it is best to recharge the deep cycle battery before it is reduced to 50% of charge. This allows the battery to last longer and offers insurance that the pump will have power to work. So the actual operation of the pump should be no more than 25 hours.
Depending upon the size of the hydroponic system being watered, most systems only require the pump to be run three to six times a day, for periods of 10 to 15 minutes. For a 500 GPH (gallons per hour) pump that means 80 gallons will be delivered to the system for a 10 minute cycle and 120 gallons for a 15 minute cycle. That is if the pump is allowed to pump with full strength for the running time. Any valve between the pump and the system will allow that flow to be reduced.
If a hydroponic system is run four times a day for 15 minutes, the amount of power used should be two amps per day, and allowing the battery to reduce charge should allow a system to run for 25 days without requiring a recharge. This is in theory and it would be less if the timer in the system requires energy from the battery also.
In fact, the battery systems can be problematic and should be monitored every four or five days, and the hydroponic system itself should be designed to have that much residual water for each plant. That is a safer system, so even if the pump and battery system do not work, the plants will have enough water to last the times between being checked.
The plant container in a remote system should contain enough water for the plant to survive for four or five days without receiving any additional water. Even if the plant used up most of the nutrients in the water, the extra may help them survive until the mechanical system can be restored.
Another option to increase the reliability of the system is to place two or more batteries in parallel, that is hook positive poles to positive poles and therefore increase the time available for the hydroponics system, or increase amp hours. But even using this option, it is safest for your plants to design a system that will keep the plants alive even if the pump does not work, at least for some time.
Recharging the Deep Cycle Battery
The battery can be continuously recharged by a power producing device. There are several options available.
A battery recharger – There are battery rechargers on the market that can be plugged into the household AC system that will then recharge a battery. A few of these costing about $80.00 have voltage regulators in them which will prevent overcharging the battery. The drawback is that they have to be plugged into an AC system. This can be used to charge batteries that are then transported to the remote site.
Solar power – There are photovoltaic panels that use the sun the produce electrical power. These range in size from 60 watts to about 140 watts and cost about $300 to $400.00. They can be used to power the battery but need a voltage regulator in the circuit to prevent overcharging the battery.
One drawback to solar power is that it needs sunshine to work. Cloudy days and rainy days do not provide power and if a shadow falls on any part of the panel it may work very poorly or not at all. Even when the solar cell works well it may only deliver two to three amps per hour to the cell, and may not keep up with battery use from the pump.
Wind power – A wind generator of 60 to 400 watts can be used like the solar cell to produce power from the wind. These cost about $300 to $400 and have a similar drawback to the solar cells that they work only if there is wind from five to 15 miles per hour.
Generator – A gas or diesel powered generator can be used to provide energy for the battery. These also require a voltage regulator and cost from $500 to $1500 for small systems. The drawback is they use fuel, are usually noisy and are really oversized for a small system. Most of these generators need to be started by hand, some even requiring a pull cord to start. They are not usually easily or cheaply set up into automatic systems providing recharge when needed.
Perhaps a system that combines methods of recharging is best, such as a system with both a wind generator and a solar panel.
Hydroponic System to
Attach to the Pump
Whatever type of hydroponic system is used to deliver water to the plants, it is probably safer to have two water tanks for the nutrient water, one with the water and pump at ground level and one four foot or less above the ground level pump.
This tank will then use gravity and a valve to deliver the nutrient water to the plants that will then go through the system and then through gravity flow back into the ground level tank.
A system that is provided 120 gallons of nutrient water four times a day can probably supply about 200 plants that use a liter of water a day. The amount of water required per plant varies according to plant type and size, and the temperature and sun conditions of the day.
On a sunny hot day the plants will require twice the water as on a cooler cloudy day. The plants transpire this water to keep themselves cool. So a system should be sized to have enough water for the plants on a very hot day.
A three times a day system with 240 gallon of water being delivered to the plant system should easily supply 200 plants with enough water to last the day. Of course the water supply tank would also have to be sized to have enough water in reserve.
Once a pumping operation is established the hydroponic system can be pvc tubes, black plastic bags, or other plant holders. The water supplied to the plants can be either pumped to the plants with any excess being allowed to go to soil, or the extra waters gathered and returned to the watering tank.
Internet resources
http://elifritz.members.atlantic.net/hydroponics.htm
http://www.powerboat-reports.com/sample/bilge.html
http://www.rain.org/~philfear/how2solar.html
http://www.qsl.net/xq2fod/Electron/solarreg/Solarr~1.htm
http://www.dcbattery.com/faq.html#6
http://www.marine-electronics.net/techarticle/battery_faq/b_faq.htm#11
Types of Hydroponics - Nutrient Film Technique
May 8, 2008

This is the kind of hydroponic system most people think of when they think about hydroponics. N.F.T. systems have a constant flow of nutrient solution so no timer required for the submersible pump.
The nutrient solution is pumped into the growing tray (usually a tube) and flows over the roots of the plants, and then drains back into the reservoir.
There is usually no growing medium used other than air, which saves the expense of replacing the growing medium after every crop. Normally the plant is supported in a small plastic basket with the roots dangling into the nutrient solution.
N.F.T. systems are very susceptible to power outages and pump failures. The roots dry out very rapidly when the flow of nutrient solution is interrupted.
We have created a Custom animated application in flash to better illustrate exactly how these systems work. We encourage you to place these on your site to better inform your customers and visitors. If you would like to use this application on your webpage, all you need to do is place the code below between the <body></body> tags on your site.
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.hydroponicsdictionary.com/type.js"></script>
Types of Hydroponics - Ebb and Flow
May 8, 2008
The Ebb and Flow system works by temporarily flooding the grow tray with nutrient solution and then draining the solution back into the reservoir.
This action is normally done with a submerged pump that is connected to a timer.
When the timer turns the pump on nutrient solution is pumped into the grow tray. When the timer shuts the pump off the nutrient solution flows back into the reservoir.
The Timer is set to come on several times a day, depending on the size and type of plants, temperature and humidity and the type of growing medium used.
The Ebb and Flow is a versatile system that can be used with a variety of growing mediums. The entire grow tray can be filled with Grow Rocks, gravel or granular Rockwool.
Many people like to use individual pots filled with growing medium, this makes it easier to move plants around or even move them in or out of the system. The main disadvantage of this type of system is that with some types of growing medium (Gravel, Growrocks, Perlite), there is a vulnerability to power outages as well as pump and timer failures.
The roots can dry out quickly when the watering cycles are interrupted. This problem can be relieved somewhat by using growing media that retains more water (Rockwool, Vermiculite, coconut fiber or a good soiless mix like Pro-mix or Faffard’s)
We have created a Custom animated application in flash to better illustrate exactly how these systems work. We encourage you to place these on your site to better inform your customers and visitors. If you would like to use this application on your webpage, all you need to do is place the code below between the <body></body> tags on your site.
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.hydroponicsdictionary.com/type.js"></script>
The Different Types of Hydroponics: Water Culture
May 8, 2008
WATER CULTURE

The water culture system is the simplest of all active hydroponic systems.
The platform that holds the plants is usually made of Styrofoam and floats directly on the nutrient solution. An air pump supplies air to the air stone that bubbles the nutrient solution and supplies oxygen to the roots of the plants.
Water culture is the system of choice for growing leaf lettuce, which are fast growing water loving plants, making them an ideal choice for this type of hydroponic system. Very few plants other than lettuce will do well in this type of system. This type of hydroponic system is great for the classroom and is popular with teachers.
A very inexpensive system can be made out of an old aquarium or other water tight container. The biggest draw back of this kind of system is that it doesn’t work well with large plants or with long-term plants.
We have created a Custom animated application in flash to better illustrate exactly how these systems work. We encourage you to place these on your site to better inform your customers and visitors. If you would like to use this application on your webpage, all you need to do is place the code below between the <body></body> tags on your site.
<script type=”text/javascript” src=”http://www.hydroponicsdictionary.com/type.js”></script>
Types of Hydroponics - Drip
May 8, 2008

Drip systems are probably the most widely used type of hydroponic system in the world.
Operation is simple, a timer controls a submersed pump. The timer turns the pump on and nutrient solution is dripped onto the base of each plant by a small drip line.
In a Recovery Drip System the excess nutrient solution that runs off is collected back in the reservoir for re-use.
The Non-Recovery System does not collect the run off.
A recovery system uses nutrient solution a bit more efficiently, as excess solution is reused, this also allows for the use of a more inexpensive timer because a recovery system doesn’t require precise control of the watering cycles. The non-recovery system needs to have a more precise timer so that watering cycles can be adjusted to insure that the plants get enough nutrient solution and the runoff is kept to a minimum.
The non-recovery system requires less maintenance due to the fact that the excess nutrient solution isn’t recycled back into the reservoir, so the nutrient strength and pH of the reservoir will not vary. This means that you can fill the reservoir with pH adjusted nutrient solution and then forget it until you need to mix more. A recovery system can have large shifts in the pH and nutrient strength levels that require periodic checking and adjusting.
We have created a Custom animated application in flash to better illustrate exactly how these systems work. We encourage you to place these on your site to better inform your customers and visitors. If you would like to use this application on your webpage, all you need to do is place the code below between the <body></body> tags on your site.
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.hydroponicsdictionary.com/type.js"></script>
All grow lights are not created equal
May 8, 2008
There are five types of HID lights, and they include mercury vapor, low-pressure sodium, xenon short-arc lamps, metal halide and high-pressure sodium. Metal halide and high-pressure sodium make great hydroponic lights.
Hydroponic gardening is one of the most popular methods for plant production. This allows people with no land, or land unsuitable for plant growth, to produce food and flowers with ease. As you go about building your up your hydroponics system you will want to invest in excellent grow lights. Many gardeners choose HID, or high intensity discharge, grow lamps because they most closely resemble natural sunlight, and this is conducive to excellent plant growth in an indoor growing situation. However, not all grow lights are created equal.
A metal halide grow light produces a light in the blue spectrum, which is useful to young plants to help them attain maturity. For this type of light to work, electricity flows through a mix of metal halides and mercury, as well as argon gas. The metal halides have an affect on the color of light the lamp produces as well as the strength of the light. Metal halide lights are made up of a metal base and a bulb made out of glass. Inside the lamp you will find wires, a quartz arc tube, tungsten electrodes, metals and gas. In order for a metal halide lamp to function properly, you must use an electrical ballast, often gardeners choose a digital ballast for this purpose. The ballast controls the flow of electricity to the light bulb, and metal halide bulbs, when used with a specially designed ballast, allows for dimming of the light as well. Metal halides offer a great deal of control over the color temperature, or the color of the light, produced, which is why hydroponic gardeners like these lights.
A sodium vapor light, on the other hand, uses sodium to produce light in the red spectrum. Unlike the metal halide lamp, the high pressure sodium light uses an alumina arc tube. Alumina makes use of a diffused aluminum oxide, which is necessary because of the great deal of chemical activity that occurs with a high pressure sodium arc within the bulb. A high-pressure sodium lamp also must use a ballast such as futurebrite digital ballast to control the flow of electricity to the light, much as it does in the metal halide application.
Indoor gardeners enjoy using both of these types of bulbs because they give off a very intense light, which is needed by plants to thrive. Blue spectrum light of metal halide bulbs is beneficial when plants are young to enhance growth, while red spectrum light provided by high-pressure sodium lamps helps plants produce flowers and fruit. Select both lamps to enhance your plants’ entire lifetime photosynthesis needs.
Susan Slobac is an expert in indoor gardening with a long history of using hydroponic gardening techniques. Offering seasoned advice for all plant enthusiasts, from the novice to the professional, Susan provides meaningful and insightful tips to make the most of your indoor garden.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Susan_Slobac
Types of Hydroponics - Aeroponics
May 8, 2008

The aeroponic system is probably the most high-tech type of hydroponic gardening. Like the N.F.T. system below the growing medium is primarily air. The roots hang in the air and are misted with nutrient solution.
The mistings are usually done every few minutes. Because the roots are exposed to the air like the N.F.T. system, the roots will dry out rapidly if the misting cycles are interrupted.
A timer controls the nutrient pump much like other types of hydroponic systems, except the aeroponic system needs a short cycle timer that runs the pump for a few seconds every couple of minutes.
We have created a Custom animated application in flash to better illustrate exactly how these systems work. We encourage you to place these on your site to better inform your customers and visitors. If you would like to use this application on your webpage, all you need to do is place the code below between the <body></body> tags on your site.
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.hydroponicsdictionary.com/type.js"></script>
Symptoms of Deficiency In Essential Minerals
May 8, 2008
Iron - (Fe) (immobile in plant, immobile in high ph soil)

Iron deficiency is common in many plants, especially those grown indoors.
Deficiencies initially show as interveinal chlorosis in young leaves, with leaf veins green in color and older leaves unaffected. Leaves are smaller than normal.
Iron deficiency is especially a problem in alkaline conditions, or in wet, poorly root zone media. Iron becomes more bioavailable when root zone and nutrient water becomes more acidic, or when the proper chelates are bound with the iron.
Iron deficiency also reveals itself as interveinal chlorotic mottling of immature leaves. In severe cases, new leaves lack chlorophyll but show little or no necrotic spots. Chlorotic mottling of immature leaves starts first near bases of leaflets so that the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow streak.
Cool temperatures, high humidity and wet root zone conditions create Fe deficiencies, especially if Fe is already in short supply.
Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and to transport. That’s why you should only use Advanced Nutrients nutrient formulas- they are properly chelated for fast and easy absorption of iron and other key micronutrients.
Plant uptake of Fe decreases with increased soil pH, and is adversely affected by high levels of available P, Mn and Zn in soils. Excessive iron causes bronzing of leaves with tiny brown spots.
Plants use iron for protein and nucleic acid metabolism, chlorophyll formation and electron transport. Enzymes (catalase, peroxidase, cytochromes) and photosynthesis components require iron.
The ratio of iron and sulfur available to plants directly affects their ability to take in nitrogen.
Iron in plants and root zones are mostly found bound to chelates; that’s why free iron levels are extremely low (10mM). Iron has to be reduced to Fe+ at the root surface before being transported to the cytoplasm (only grasses can absorb iron in the form of Fe3+). In the xylem iron is transported in the form of a iron-carbohydrate complex.
Silicon - (Si) (immobile in plant)
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Silicon is a very important plant nutrient. It is a vital component of epidermal cell walls. It strengthens plants so they can fight off diseases and resist insects, drought, heat and stress.
The performance-enhancing benefits of potassium silicate are most easily provided by using a packaged potassium silicate product purchased at a hydroponics retail store. Potassium Silicate substantially strengthens plants’ ability to transport nutrients and other substances in roots and internal plant cells.
Potassium Silicate increases cell wall stability, speeds up root cell replication, builds stronger and more extensive root systems, increases nutrient absorption and resistance to stress/drought, and enhances plants’ ability to resist pathogens and insects.
Silica is a buffering and balancing substance that helps plants deal with potentially-toxic levels of salts, minerals and pollutants.
Potassium Silicate will help give your plant a larger, stronger, more vigorous living infrastructure.
Zinc - (Zn) (mobile in plants, immobile in high ph soils)

Zinc deficiencies are among the more serious of micronutrient deficiencies and should be corrected as soon as they are diagnoses.
Deficiency first shows itself as pronounced interveinal chlorosis in young leaves and mid-shoot leaves. You might also see interveinal yellowish areas starting at leaf tip and margins and eventually affecting all growing points of the plant.
Interveinal chlorotic mottling may be mimic iron and manganese deficiencies except for that it is accompanied by tiny leaves, and rosetting (short internodes).
Other signs of zinc deficiencies include grayish brown spots that form on leaves halfway up the plant and then spread. When zinc deficiency onset is sudden, such as when zinc is not present in the nutrient solution, the chlorosis can appear to be identical to that of iron and manganese deficiency.
Excess zinc toxicity often looks like copper deficiency because it interferes with uptake of copper. Symptoms of some fungal and viral diseases can resemble symptoms of excess zinc, which can manifest as upward-curling leaves.
Excess zinc can cause iron deficiencies and in extreme cases it can cause plant death, but it is uncommon to have excess zinc. One way that excess zinc can be generated is when growers use a farm feed tank or metal garbage can for nutrient water. These are often zinc coated, and the coating can come off easily and poison your plants with toxic zinc buildup.
Also be advised that some types of manufactured lava rock root zone media contain high zinc levels.
Zinc is essential for growth regulation and regulating carbohydrate consumption. Zinc improves chlorophyll function. It’s a component in many enzymes and is important in enzyme systems, particularly for water absorption and usage. It’s essential for plant hormone balance, especially auxin (IAA) activity and electron transport.
Zinc is absorbed through roots. After it reaches the xylem it is transported as a free Zn+ ion. Plants depend on several zinc-containing enzymes, including alcohol dehydrogenase. In Super Oxide Dismutase (SOD), zinc is complexed with copper by means of a nitrogen atom from histidine. Carbonic anhydrase binds carbon dioxide, which makes it possible to reversibly store CO2 as HCO3-. This enzyme, found in the chloroplast and in the cytoplasm, consists of six subunits each of which binds a zinc atom.
Zinc is essential for protein synthesis and for the activity of RNA polymerase. Zinc also plays a role in the synthesis of tryptophan from indol thus affecting the formation of indol acteic acid by the plant.
Zinc is a critical miconutrient and must be properly provided to plants in a form that is bioavailable to them.


