Hydroponic Experiment Ideas!
May 8, 2008
A hydroponics project doesn’t need to be that expensive. The most expensive
part of a hydroponic experiment is the nutrient solution. You may be able to
make one from the chemicals which your chemistry teacher has on hand. A
Hoagland solution is a common solution used by plant scientists. A cheaper
alternative is to buy a premixed hydroponic fertilizer from a hydroponic
supplier. There are dozens of hydroponic suppliers on the internet. Homegrown
Hydroponics sells DNF which costs $11 for 500 ml, which would make 50 liters of
full strength nutrient solution. Fifty liters which would be plenty for most
hydroponic experiments and it is often possible to use half-strength solutions.
Hydroponic reservoirs can be made from plastic food containers, such as 2-liter
soda bottles or even 35-mm film cans. An aquarium air pump, tubing and valves
are useful to provide aeration but not absolutely necessary. My book has
instructions for several hydroponic experiments and constructing inexpensive
hydroponic equipment.
There are all sorts of hydroponic experiments. Some examples are:
1. Compare plant growth in water to that in a hydroponic solution.
2. Compare hydroponic solution with a fertilizer like Miracle-Gro.
3. Effects of solution aeration of plant growth.
4. Effects of root pruning on plant growth.
5. Plant effects on the nutrient solution pH.
6. Nutrient solution pH effects on plant growth.
7. Nutrient solution salinity effects on plant growth.
8. Effects of adding plant hormones to nutrient solution.
9. Can fish wastes supply nutrients for plant growth?
10. Examine mineral nutrient deficiency or toxicity symptoms.
Source: http://www.madsci.org
Easiest Homemade Hydroponics System- Ebb & Flow
May 8, 2008
Not every type of hydroponics system lends itself well to homemade design. For systems that use drip or spray heads, you have many costly items to purchase before you can produce a properly working system. Usually, you end up learning a lot from your first failed attemp if you choose to build your own drip system or aeroponics system. There is one easy and relatively inexpensive homemade hydroponics system I have found. It is the homemade ebb and flow.
For a homemade hydroponics ebb and flow system, you will need two cheap plastic storage totes, an aquarium air pump, an aquarium water pump, a timer, a set of flood and drain fittings, and a short length of plastic tubing. If you are not sure what flood and drain fittings are, go to Google, click on “images”, and do a quick search for “flood and drain fittings”.
First, one tote will be your nutrient reservoir. Pick a dark color tote to keep light out of the nutrient solution…this will help prevent the growth of algae. The air pump should go to a couple of air stones, which will be kept bubbling in the nutrient reservoir. The water pump goes here as well. Your water pump should be able to move at least 100 gallons/hour at a height of 3 feet. The pump should cost you about 30 dollars.
The other tote will go on top of the nutrient reservoir and hold the plant containers. Plant containers should be filled with expanded clay pellets or something equal, like lecca stone or lava chips. Somewhere in the bottom of this container (out of the way of the plants) you will drill two 3/4 inch holes and install the flood and drain fitting in one, and the overflow fitting in the other. Finish it off by running a short piece of tubing from the water pump to the flood and drain fitting (which is the shorter of the two).
All you have left to do is plug the water pump into the timer, set your timer for your flood and drain cycle, and fill the nutrient reservoir with ten gallons of solution. Flood your plant container for a 1/2 hour 4 times a day while the lights are on.
When the pump kicks on, the top container will fill with water (but never higher than the overflow). It takes a while for the clay pellets to really absorb the nutrient solution. When the pump kicks off, the nutrient solution will drain back down the shorter fitting, leaving the plant roots and the clay pellets wet with nutrient solution.
The flood and drain system is the homemade hydroponics system I use most often. The function of the system is simple. The results are consistently very good. The system is so easy to put together.
Before you get started…your systme is only one piece of the indoor gardening puzzle. You must have control over the environment you place your garden into, and this environment must be to the plants liking. In addition, you will have a much better chance at success once you learn the exact nutrient requirements (and therefore the exact feeding) of your plants at every stage of their development. In order to meet these feeding requirements, you must learn how to properly maintain nutrient sollution in a reservoir. Learn these things and you are sure to have a hydro-greenthumb.
For complete info on the different hydroponics systems and to learn how to properly maintain your nutrient solution, check out http://www/jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics=gardening.com/
Hi, my name is Jason. I have ten years experience growing indoors under lights. No less than two of those years I was using hydroponics methods. It is my goal to improve every organic and hydroponic gardeners results through accurate, easy to understand information.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jason_Willkomm
Hoagland Solution: homemade hydroponic solution
May 8, 2008
Hoagland solution recipes:
Hoagland solution #1 (per liter of nutrient solution):
5 ml of 1 M (M=Molar) potassium nitrate
5 ml of 1 M calcium nitrate
1 ml of 1 M monopotassium phosphate
2 ml of 1 M magnesium sulfate
1 ml of micronutrient stock solution (see recipe below)
1 to 5 ml of 1000 mg/liter iron from iron chelate (Fe-EDTA, Fe-DTPA,
or Fe-EDDHA)
Hoagland Solution minus nitrogen (per liter of nutrient solution):
10 ml of 0.05 M monocalcium phosphate
200 ml of 0.01 M calcium sulfate dihydrate
5 ml of 0.5 M potassium sulfate
2 ml of
1 M magnesium sulfate
1 ml of micronutrient stock solution
1 to 5 ml of iron chelate stock solution as for #1
(add some calcium nitrate to give a Hoagland solution with some nitrogen but
less than 100% nitrogen, e.g. 10% nitrogen is supplied by 0.75 ml of 1 Molar
calcium nitrate)
Micronutrient stock solution per liter:
2.86 g boric acid
1.81 g manganese chloride -
4 hydrate
0.22 g zinc sulfate - 7 hydrate
0.08 g copper sulfate - 5 hydrate
0.02 g 85% molybdic acid
When diluted 1:1000 the micronutrient stock solution provides the
following in mg/liter:
Boron 0.5
Manganese 0.5
Zinc 0.05
Copper 0.02
Molybdenum 0.01
Source: http://www.madsci.org
Simple and Cheap way to have a hydroponic garden
May 8, 2008
Following are our suggestions for a simple and cheap way to have a hydroponic garden.
Please do note that hydroponics works really well because the gardener
provides everything the plants need. So by cutting down to the very
basic needs for a hydroponic system we actually give the plants
a disadvantage.
Requirements
When doing a science project on hydroponics, these are the very basic things you need:
1. A garden system
2. growing medium
3. A & B nutrient
4. pH kit
5. Seeds
6. A bucket
7. Piece of water hose, attached to the bucket and to your tray
With hydroponics the gardener usually also provides the light. If you
have a grow light, use it. If you don’t make sure the plants get ample sunlight.
1. Gravity Fed System A standard 2 part nursery tray and a bucket can be easily rigged to a ‘flood & drain’ garden.
We have small deep water culture gardens available (Mini Hydro Harvest, Jack’s Little Garden) if you wish to purchase a complete hydroponic starter kit. These gardens come complete with nutrient, pH kit, growing medium, pump etc. Their prices range between $84 CDN and $112 CDN.
2. A hydroponics growing medium is completely inert. An inert medium will not effect the pH of the nutrient solution. It does not provide anything but an anchor for the plant. Hydroponic growing mediums are less compact than earth so the roots get more air.
1″ cube with cutting
The growing medium we suggest for a project is ‘Rockwool’. Get one inch / 2.5 cm starter cubes.
3. Any commercially prepared standard ‘hydroponic nutrient’ should do nicely. More information on nutrient.
4. Plants will fail if their pH is too high or low. You need something to test the pH level of your nutrient solution and pH adjusters. We sell a pH kit for approximately $13.50 CDN.
5. Try an herb such as basil, it will grow and flower quickly. Leaf lettuce is another good plant to use because we harvest before it flowers. Stay away from tomato, pepper, cucumber because they take a very long time to fruit.
Preparation
The first step is to pH balance the Rockwool starting cubes. pH refers to acid or
alkaline level of the solution. The pH scale goes from one to fourteen, with seven
being neutral. Any reading above seven is alkaline, any reading below seven is acidic.
Tap water tends to be a little on the alkaline side and since plants prefer a slightly
acidic root zone, we must add a little acid to the water we feed the plants.
Fill a one litre container with tap water. Pour about one tablespoon of the water
into a small clear container. With an eye dropper add two drops of pH indicator
solution to the water sample. Now compare the colour of the sample to the colour
chart on the bottle. It will probably be greenish (pH 7-8). Next add two or three
drops of ‘pH Down” (phosphoric acid) to the litre of water, stir and do the test
again. Repeat this procedure until the sample turns yellow, indicating a pH of about
6.0. If the colour of the sample turns brownish or reddish, you have added too much pH
Down, so just add more tap water to raise the pH level again. Be careful not to get any
pH Down on your hands. If you do, wash immediately with water.
Set up the hydroponic systemGravity Fed System
Put the garden in the place where it will remain. It is not easy to move when it is in
use. Make sure the garden is on a sturdy, level surface where it can’t be knocked over.
When mounting on a window ledge make sure the ledge is wider than the garden.
Rockwool must not sit on a flat surface, there must be an air space underneath. Prop up,
use ½” of Perlite or a standard 2 part nursery tray.
Attach the hose to the tray and bucket.
Plant seeds
Now you are ready to soak your one inch starter cubes in the pH balanced solution and put
them on a plate or tray. It is now time to plant your seeds! Choose your seeds and insert
one seed into the small hole in the top of each cube. If there is not a pre-made hole, make
one about pencil width, a quarter inch / 0.75cm deep. Cover the hole with a bit of Rockwool
so the seed has a dark place to sprout from. Take a small piece of saran wrap or a clear
plastic bag and cover the cubes to keep the moisture in. In a couple of days wet the cubes
again with your pH balanced water.
Most seeds will begin to sprout in four to six days. Once they have sprouted, remove the
saran wrap and moisten the cubes again.
Mix the nutrients
Yellow FlowerThe nutrients are the plant’s source of food so it is important that we do not
give
them too much or too little. The hydroponic nutrients supply all of the mineral elements
that plants otherwise would get from the soil. Since your plants are still very young, mix the
nutrient solution at half strength this time.
So use 2.5 ml of each the ‘A’ and ‘B’ nutrient per litre (Check the instructions on your
nutrients.). Mix enough solution to fill your tray to ¾’s of the height of the Rockwool cubes.
pH balance the solution
This process is identical to the procedure for preparing the seeding cubes. Always adjust
the pH level after mixing the nutrients as they will also lower the pH a little.
Flood and Drain your garden
Raise the bucket above the garden so the nutrient solution will flow into the tray.
The tray should be flooded to ¾ of the cubes’ height and drain immediately after. Make sure
to not submerge the roots for more than 3 minutes.
Repeat this 2 to 3 times per day.
Maintenance of your nutrient solution
2ft Hydro HarvestPlants use more water than nutrients, therefore top up the bucket with
fresh water daily and pH balance the solution to 6.0 / 6.5.
Make a new solution each week. After the first week use ¾ strength nutrients, a week later
you can start mixing a full strength solution.
This Flood and Drain technique exposes the roots directly to the nutrient solution. Erratic pH and EC (the amount of dissolved salts in the solution) is caused by the roots acting directly on the nutrient solution. Plants will benefit greatly by keeping these levels steady.
A remark on light
Remember that light is very important. If your plants don’t have light, it doesn’t matter what you give them.
A Fun Science Project - Do Plants Like Music?
May 8, 2008

By Mort Barish
Much has been said and argued about music affecting the growth of plants.
Back in 1973 it was reported that geraniums grew faster when they were played Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos. In 1991 someone reported that he had stimulated plants to generate more protein by playing audible notes which produced vibrations occurring in molecules during protein formation.
Another experimenter reported that young bean plants subjected to heavy metal music grew faster than those subjected to soft classical music. This result was mentioned to a renowned biologist who commented that one should get the same result using an electric fan in place of a loudspeaker with music. He said that plants in nature grow well and strong with mechanical agitation such as wind and storm. Therefore one might do the right experiment and draw the wrong conclusion.
Well it appears that there is only way to settle the argument and find out once and for all whether plant growth is affected by music. Ready? We’re going to do this project with seeds and with plants.
You are going to need five pots and saucers, potting soil, water, a CD or cassette player and four different types of music. You might try classical (soft), hard rock, country, and Sinatra. You can substitute different music but make your selection of very different kinds of music. You will also need ten bean seeds, five plants of similar type and size, labels, marking pen, camera, and paper.
Get five plants of the same size and type, and put them where they get sun from the east.
Every day, play music for twenty minutes to each plant. Each plant will get a different type of music. You can try country music on one plant, and with the others, play classical, rock and oldies. Water the plants every other day. One of the plants will get no music. This is your experiment control.
Photograph your plants at the beginning of the experiment, and keep careful records of which plant gets what kind of music.
At the same time that you started with the plants, take ten bean seeds and plant two seeds in each pot. You will need five pots in all. Water as needed. Make sure that each gets exposed to one of the four different types of music. One pot should hear no music. Keep careful records, take lots of photographs. Be sure to give all plants the same amount of water and light. After one month, check and see which plant is the tallest.
What have you learned in this fun science project? Does music help plants grow?
Plants and music make great material for winning science fair projects! This and more plant and music science fair project ideas can be found at http://www.terimore.com
Mort Barish is co-founder of Terimore Institute, Inc. Terimore Institute provides science fair projects for children in grades K-12 to help them successfully compete in science fairs. He has been creating educational materials for children and related graphic communications for almost fifty years. He is the author of seven books and has won numerous awards for his graphic presentations. He was the President and Founder of an award winning Marketing Communications firm for 27 years.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mort_Barish
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Science projects about plants and botany
May 8, 2008
Learn how to prepare award-winning science fair projects.
1. How do different conditions affect the speed at which fruit and vegetables ripen?
Temperature, light, placement in sealed bags, exposure to other ripe fruit–all have different
effects on different fruits and vegetables. Design an experiment to test two or more of these variables.
Background Info: Ethylene gas is the ripening agent that many fruits and vegetables
produce naturally. Ethylene causes them to ripen–and then overripen. While
refrigeration and humidity slow the effects of ripening, they don’t stop the
production of ethylene gas. The more the fruit ripens, the more ethylene gas
it makes. This has a big effect on how–and when–farmers harvest their
fruits and vegetables for market. Most commercial tomatoes are picked
before ripening is completed, so the fruit won’t spoil before it gets
to your market. But picking early also means the tomato spends less
time on the vine, where ethylene would help build more of the
sugars and acids that create tip-top tomato flavor.
2. How do different types of fertilizers affect plant growth?
Fertilizers differ in their amounts of the nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium. Get different fertilizers from a garden shop or nursery
and apply them to groups of the same plant. Do the different fertilizers
change how the plants grow? You could measure height, width, number of
leaves, how fast the plants grow, number of flowers or yield.
3. What happens when you grow sweet potatoes next to other plants?
Compare how fast the other plants grow at different distances from sweet
potatoes. Remember to grow some control plants nowhere near the sweet potato.
Background Info: Allelopathy is a chemical process that a plant uses to keep
other plants from growing too close to it. Some plants that use allelopathy
are black walnut trees, sunflowers, wormwoods, sagebrushes, and trees of heaven.
There are several ways in which an allelopathic plant can release its protective chemicals:
Volatilization - Allelopathic trees release a chemical in the form of a gas
through small openings in their leaves. Other plants absorb the toxic chemical and die.
* Leaching - Some plants store protective chemicals in the leaves they drop.
When the leaves fall to the ground, they decompose, giving off chemicals
that protect the plant.
* Exudation - Some plants release defensive chemicals into the soil
through their roots. Those chemicals are absorbed by the roots of
other nearby plants, which are damaged.
4. How do different treatments change how fast seeds sprout?
You can find out how quickly seeds sprout under different temperatures,
or after being soaked for different times or in different liquids. Or,
see how one kind of treatment affects different types of seeds.
5. How close does a pesticide have to be to protect a plant?
Grow a number of groups of the same plant. Apply a Bt-based insecticide
directly to the plant according to the directions on the package and at
various distances from the plants. Compare the amount of insect damage
to each group of plants. You might also look at how big or fast each
group of plants grows.
6. How does soil pH affect the pH of water that touches the soil?
Gather different types of soil. Put some of each type in a cup and check
out the pH. Then add water to the cups, and mix. Wait for the soil to
settle and measure the pH of the water. Be sure you use water from the
same source for each soil. Find out more about soil.
Background Info: A pH meter can be found at almost any garden shop or nursery.
The pH scale - Just about every substance is acidic, basic or neutral.
The acid or base nature of a substance is measured by a pH scale that
runs from 0 to 14. Substances from 0 to 7 are considered acid; substances
from 7 to 14 are basic. Seven, the pH of pure water, is considered
“neutral.” The pH of your blood is about 7.35. Most plants grow best
around pH 7.0. Some–like blueberries, azaleas and rhododendrons–like acid soil with a pH from about 5 to 6.
7. Which way is up?
Many seeds and bulbs have a definite top and bottom. What happens if you plant them upside
down or sideways? Will the seeds still grow; will it take longer for leaves to start showing up?
What happens if you change a seed’s direction once it starts to sprout? Many seeds
like beans can be sprouted in moist cotton or paper towels. What happens if you
turn the seed 90 or 180 degrees from right side up every few days after it sprouts?
You can take it a step further by using a record player turntable to simulate changing
gravity’s pull on seeds. You’ll want to know more about the chemical auxin, which
affects where roots and stems grow.
Sprout bean seeds for 3 days in moist paper towels inside pieces of folded aluminum foil.
Then tape one or more packets on the turntable and set it for 78 RPM. Allow the
machine to rotate continuously for 5 days. After the 5 days are up, turn off the
record player and without changing the position of the foil, open them up and
observe the beans.
The rotating turntable creates a gravity with an outward force instead of the normal down.
8. Roots Restrictions
Does the amount of room a plant has for roots make a difference in how big
a plant will grow, regardless of how much fertilizer the plant is given?
Plant seeds in a variety of different-sized containers using vermiculite
or other soil-less material, so you will be able to give each plant a
measured amount of fertilizer. Or plant a number of plants in the same
size containers and vary the amount of fertilizer and see what happens. Be sure to
use small enough containers so that root growth really will be constricted.
9. Can different colors and types of cloth attract or repel insects from plants?
Plant a number of groups of the same type of plant near each other, but
far enough apart to surround each set with several feet of fabric.
Or select several of the same kind of bush in one yard. You want
to use the same type of plant in the same place, so all of the
plants will have the same potential for insect damage.
Surround each group of plants with a different color fabric. Be sure
water can penetrate the fabrics. At set intervals, record all the
insects you can find on each plants and any signs of insect damage
on the plant. It is a good idea to check reference sources for
common insect problems of the type of plants you are using.
10. The effects of light on seedlings germination
How do light and dark conditions affect the germination and growth of seedlings?
Materials: 20 bean seeds, 2 Ziploc bags, 2 damp paper towels, desk lamp.
Procedure: Separate bean seeds into two different piles with equal number
of seeds (10 seeds in each pile). Wet the paper towels until completely
dampened. Place the dampened paper towels in the Ziploc bags, and then
place 10 seeds on top of the paper towels in each bag. Make sure the
seeds are on the paper towel in the bag and close the bag, but not
completely (about 3/4 way closed). Wrap one of the Ziploc bags completely
in aluminum foil. Leave the other one uncovered. Place both Ziploc bags
under a desk lamp. After 7 days, check the bag that has been in the light
as well as the bag that has been wrapped in aluminum foil. Compare the
germinated seeds. You should definitely see a difference between the two.
You should note mainly the color and stem length differences between the
seedlings that germinated in light and those that germinated in darkness.
What differences did you observe between seedlings that germinated in the
light and in the dark? (color of leaves, length of stems, etc.)
What caused those differences?
11. What affect does the brightness of light have on the growth rate of a plant?
How do light and dark conditions affect the germination and growth of seedlings?
Materials: Greenhouse or sunny window sill, 10 bean seeds, 10
small pots, water, ruler, potting soil, pencil.
Procedure: Fill the 10 small pots with equal amounts of dampened potting
soil. With a pencil, make holes about 2 centimeters deep in each pot.
Place the 10 bean seeds, one per pot, and cover the seeds with some
of the soil. Place 5 of the pots in the greenhouse or on a window
sill on the sunny side of the house. Place the other 5 on a window
sill that does not receive bright sunlight. Seeds will germinate
within 7 days, and you can begin making stem measurements. Take
stem measurements for 14 days. Be sure to water the plants as
needed. Note the difference in stem length for each set of plants,
and write down your observations.
What differences did you observe between seedlings that grew in the
bright sunlight compared to less bright light? (color of leaves,
length of stems, etc.) What caused those differences?
12. Does crowding affect plant growth?
Determine the effects of growing plants close together vs. growing
plants farther apart.
Materials: 6 medium-sized pots, 10 bean seeds, potting soil, water,
ruler, large measuring cup, desk lamp, pencil.
Procedure: Fill all pots with an equal amount of potting soil. Be
sure that the soil has been dampened with water. Using a pencil,
make 5 holes about 2 centimeters (cm) deep in the soil of one pot.
Place seeds in each hole making sure that they are spaced relatively
close but equal distance from each other within the pot. Place the
remaining 5 seeds, 1 in each of the remaining 5 pots, about 2 cm deep.
Cover the seeds with soil. Place all the pots underneath a large desk
lamp so that each pot receives full light. Be sure to water each plant
as needed. The seeds will germinate in about 7 days, and you will be
able to begin making stem measurements. Take measurements for 14 days.
Note the difference in stem length for each plant and write down your
observations.
What differences did you observe between seedlings that were crowded and those
that were not? (color of leaves, length of stems, etc.) What caused those differences?
13. Does Colored Mulch Affect Soil Temperature?
To determine if different colored plastic (or mulch) on the soil surfa
ce affects the temperature of soil.
Materials: Digital thermometer; potting soil; 8 pots; colored mulch in black,
white, and red; window sill with full sun; tape. For the colored mulch, you can
use different paint colors to paint black plastic, or you might use different
colored plastic bags or mulch from the store.
Procedure: Fill pots with equal amounts of soil. Place 2 uncovered pots on the
window sill where there is full sun. Cover 2 pots with black plastic, 2 pots
with white plastic, and 2 pots with red plastic. Make sure the plastic covers
the top of the pot, and tape it to the pot. Place these pots on the window sill.
In 24 hours, record your first temperature measurements. You can do this by
sticking the temperature probe in the drainage hole of the pot. For 10 days,
record the temperatures for each pot in the morning and afternoon. Note the
differences in temperature among the colors, and record observations.
Which pot had the highest soil temperature? What color kept the soil the coolest?
Why do you think that some mulch colors make the soil hotter or cooler? How does
this affect plant growth (see project 14)?
14. Does Colored Mulch Affect the Growth Rate of a Plant?
To determine if colored plastic (mulch) will affect the stem length of plants.
Materials: 8 pots; 8 bean seeds; colored plastic in red, black, and white;
ruler; water; toothpicks; greenhouse or window that receives full sun;
tape; potting soil; pencil; small cup.
Procedure: Fill pots with equal amounts of potting soil. Make a hole about
2 cm long in each pot using a pencil, and place 1 seed in each pot. Cover
seed with loose soil. Mark where you planted the seed with a toothpick.
Cut plastic in pieces large enough to cover each pot. Cut a smaller hole
in the center of the plastic and cover pot with the plastic. Be sure the
smaller hole in the center is where your toothpick is so the seed is exposed
to light. Take the toothpicks out after you have taped the plastic to the pot.
Do this twice for each of the colors. You will have 2 red, 2 black, 2 white,
and 2 uncovered. After the seeds have emerged through the soil (about 5 days),
take stem measurements. Measure the stems in each pot for 14 days. Do not
forget to water your plants during the experiment. About every other day,
use a small cup and pour a small amount of water in each hole where the plant
is growing. Note the differences in height among the plants grown over
different colored plastic.
Soda Bottle Hydroponics - Experiments for Kids
May 8, 2008
This experiment is meant as a fun introduction to hydroponics. We suggest that anybody new to hydroponics start with this experiment.
You will learn what you feed a plant matters more than what the plant grows in.
Plant for all experiments:
We suggest Swedish Ivy /Creeping Charlie. This plant seems to grow no matter what - we even rooted this one in a coconut pound cake ! The roots will set from the nodes. Put the cuttings in a glass of water and wait for roots to appear (aprox 2-3 weeks).
‘Shopping’ list.
Empty 2 liter soda bottle, wick, fertilizer, plant, lemon or lemon juice, baking soda. Optional: pH test kit or litmus paper, straw, Lego blocks, shredded fabric, shredded paper.
Other materials:
You need liquid hydroponic nutrient. Typically you only use 1-2 tsp per gallon, so a bottle goes a long way.
Each Soda bottle will also need a wick. You can purchase proper wicks or the students can bring in pieces of a cotton T-shirt. It could even be put to the student to find which fabric will be the best wick.
You will also need baking soda and lemons (or lemon juice). This is used to adjust the pH, so the plant can grow. Plants grow only between pH 5 and pH 7.
It would be helpful for you to buy a little pH test kit/ litmus paper. If the pH is over 7: add ½ squeezed lemon per gallon water. If the pH is 5 or lower (unusual), add 1 tsp baking soda.
Ask each student to bring in an empty soda bottle and possible wick material.

The soda bottles should have the top cut off and put back in the bottle up side down, as shown in the photo. The liquid the plant will be growing in should always be pH adjusted. If your tap water is fine, then adding the nutrient will not change the pH so much that you have to adjust it. If you are letting the student bring in ‘home made’ wicks, we suggest that the water level in the bottle always touches the bottle neck (which now hangs inside the bottle). This way we are sure the water gets up to the plant.
For each Experiment you need to choose:
- Growing media
- Plant food mixture (also called nutrient solution)
- What environment ? (Such as temperature, light, air)
- Growing Media
- Lego Blocks
- Hay
- Shredded paper
- Shredded fabric
- Plant food Mixture
- Mixed according to the plant food bottle
- 20% of mixture replace by Coca-Cola,
- 40% of mix replaced by Kool Aid,
- 10% of mixture replaced by Milk,
- Using only plain water
- Your own home made plant food mixture
- Environment
- No Light,
- Table lamp,
- Fluorescent light,
- Sun light.
Warm room,
- refrigerator,
- normal room temperature
-
Blow exhaled air on the plant,
- blow air with a bicycle pump.
-
Using a straw blow air into the plant food mixture in the soda bottle.
The upside down soda bottle top is referred to as ‘the container’ in the following. The remainder of the bottle is ‘the reservoir’.
Tip:
If you want to make good comparisons, then you need to take one specific choice from each of the two groups and then let the third group be your variable.
Two Examples:
(1) Goal: You want to see the effect of light.
Set up 4 bottles each with the same growing media and each with the same plant food mixture (and same plant) . Now expose each bottle to different light.
(2) Goal: You want to see which growing media works the best.
Set up 5 bottles. Put a different growing media in each ‘container’. Use the exact same plant food mixture in each of the 5 bottles. Place all 5 bottle in the same place/same light.
DIFFERENT GROWING MEDIA (Add nutrient solution, wick and plant)
Use Lego blocks as growing medium in the container.
Use shredded fabric as growing medium in the container. Which kind of fabric works the best? Why do you think that is so?
Use shredded paper as growing medium. What works best leaflets, newspaper or your old essay?
Try using little rocks from the driveway as growing medium.
DIFFERENT NUTRIENT SOLUTIONS
(Add growing media, wick and plant)
Regular solution as recommended on the reservoir.
Replace 20% of the nutrient solution with Coca-Cola - add baking soda to adjust pH.
Let the kids make other suggestion to additions to the nutrient solution; such as milk, orange juice, Kool aid, coffee… Be sure to check that the pH is around 6.
DIFFERENT ENVIRONMENTS
Let kids blow air into the water in the reservoir at a regular interval. Do these plants do better than the other plants (with increasingly stagnant water…)
What if you blew air on the plant? Does it make a difference? (It might, since the plant gets more CO2)
Temperature - does it matter?
Sun light, no light, light from fluorescent light, light from a table lamp: what works best?
You can now make many experiments with any combination of the 3 groups.
Example: Grow the plant in Lego blocks. Add milk to the nutrient solution and see if the plant can grow without light.
Once the classroom media have been tried in the bottle experiments - then consider continuing with some regular hydroponic growing media such as Grodan Growcubes, Clay pellets and Coir.
The Plant Mass of Tomatoes Grown in Different Environments
May 8, 2008

PURPOSE
In the first phase of the experiment, the purpose was to measure the mass of tomato plants grown in different temperatures. In the second phase of this experiment the purpose was to measure the mass of the tomato plants grown in different soil moisture levels.
I became interested in this idea when my grandma complained about how her plants had trouble growing in our environment since it is so hot and dry.
The information gained from this experiment would help farmers and/or gardeners know the best environment for growing tomatoes, and how much water to add to them.
HYPOTHESIS
My hypothesis for the first phase was that the tomatoes would have greatest plant mass in the environment with high temperatures. My hypothesis for the second phase was that the tomatoes would have greatest plant mass in the environment with high soil moisture.
I based my hypothesis on a book called Tropical Rain Forests by April Sayer? Pulley. She indicates, “Rain forests get a lot of rain. ” She added, “The humidity is extremely high, because of the heat from the sun. ” Since plants need a lot of water, but not too much, the fact that it rains a lot is good. Since it is hot if it rains too much than the heat will make some of the extra water evaporate.
EXPERIMENT DESIGN
The constants in this study were:
* Growing temperature for all of one group
* Seed age
* Type of seed (steak tomatoes)
* Brand of seed
* Size of pot
* Potting depth
* Shape of pot
* Amount of soil
* Type of soil
* Lighting
* Type of grow light
* Type of plant
* Scale used to weigh tomatoes
* Time tomato plants are picked at conclusion of experiment
* Length of time tomato plants are allowed to grow
* Size of the tent
* Material made for tent (PVC pipes, black plastic, clear tape)
* Time of day plants are watered
Variables:
The first manipulated variable was the temperature of the three “tents”. The second manipulated variable was the amount of water added to the two test groups in each of the three “tents”.
The responding variable was the mass of the tomato plants after they have grown for four weeks.
To measure the responding variable the tomato plants are pulled, roots and all, and weighed on a triple beam balance.
MATERIALS
8 packs of seeds
3 "Tents" (PVC pipes, Black Plastic, Clear Tape)
3 Bags of soil
3 Heat lamps
12 Pots
1 triple beam balance
1 Measuring cup
PROCEDURES
1. for two weeks to allow plants to start.
2. Design an accurate drawing of the tent fame and build three “tents”:
A) Cut PVC according to design and put together.
B) Tape black plastic around PVC pipes so that the heat is held in and it makes a tent like structure.
C) Put a thermometer inside each of the tents so that the temperature can be monitored.
D) Put grow light in each tent.
3. Put “tent 1” in my garage (coldest environment).
4. Put “tent 2” in my living room, nearest to the home heating vent (warmest environment).
5. Put “tent 3” in my living room (away from home heating vent). Cut slits in the top of the “tent” to allow heat to rise out of the “tent” (close to room temperature).
6. Get twelve little pots (four per tent) and put them on the plastic covered floor.
7. Open up the bag of soil.
8. Put soil in each pot 8 cm above rim.
9. Germinated starts are placed into pots.
10. Put four planted pots in each tent directly under grow light.
11. Label two pots “A” and two pots “B” in each tent. Pots “A” receive 360 ml water and Pots “B” receive 120 ml water.
12. Water pots “A” and “B” in each of the tents every four days at 5:30pm.
13. Make sure that the tent in my garage is approximately 10 C*.
14. Make sure that the tent in my living room next to the heater is approximately 27 C*.
15. Make sure that the tent in my room is approximately 24 C*.
16. Document temperature and amount of water of pots in each tent every time they are watered.
17. At conclusion of experiment, weigh the plant mass with a triple beam balance.
A) Pick all of the tomato plants from the “tent 1” and weigh them.
B) Repeat above for “tent 2” and “tent3. ”
18. Record data in science notebook.
RESULTS
The original purpose of the first phase of the experiment was to measure the plant mass of the tomato plant grown in different temperatures. In the second phase the purpose was to measure the plant mass of the tomato plants grown in different soil moisture levels.
The results of the experiment were that the tomato plants in the 25°C that were given 120 ml of water weighed the most.
CONCLUSION
My hypothesis for the first phase was that the tomatoes would have greatest plant mass in the environment with high temperatures.
The results indicate that this hypothesis should be accepted.
My hypothesis for the second phase was that the tomatoes would have greatest plant mass in the environment with high soil moisture.
The results indicate that this hypothesis should be accepted
Because of the results of this experiment, I wonder if tomato plants would grow better in even warmer temperatures.
If I were to conduct this project again I would have started growing my tomato plans earlier so that they would have more time to grow and I would have but more plants per group.
Researched by Whitney K.2003-04
Windowsill Hydroponics - Experiments for Kids
May 8, 2008
Anyone can build a simple, automated hydroponic system without spending a lot of money. This system is compact enough to fit on a kitchen windowsill–although it can easily be expanded to accommodate any growing plant collection. All the materials that are needed for this system can be found at discount superstores, aquarium supply stores, or hardware stores for under $25.
We used a 2-liter bottle for the nutrient reservoir and an ice cube holding bin for the plant trough. Once you comprehend the logistics, feel free to experiment with other containers. To prepare your nutrient reservoir, drill two holes in the cap of the 2-liter bottle. The holes should be just big enough to snugly hold the 1/4-inch straight through connectors. One hole will be for the water line and the other will be for the air line. Drill a hole in the side of the trough (the ice cube holding bin) as close to the bottom as possible. If you plan on expanding your system, drill another hole on the opposite side. Insert the straight through connectors in the drilled holes. Create a quality seal around the connectors with glue or silicon caulk.
Create your water distribution hose by drilling several small holes in a piece of irrigation tubing cut to fit the bottom of the trough. Connect one end of the tube to one of the fittings on the inside of the trough. The other end of the tube can be sealed with a dab of glue or caulk. If you plan on expanding your system, don’t seal the other end. Instead, connect it to the other fitting on the opposite side of the trough. Connect the water line from the nutrient reservoir to the trough. Cut another piece of water line to about the same length as your nutrient reservoir. Then connect this line to the other side of the water line connector, on the inside of the bottle cap. The line should hang down to the bottom of the 2-liter bottle when the cap is on.
Run the air line from the air pump to the other straight through connector on the cap of the bottle. At some point in the air line, splice the line to put in the T connector. Off the T, connect the aquarium air line bleed valve.
Fill your 2-liter bottle with water until it’s about three-quarters full. Reconnect it to your trough and place the trough where it will be situated. Turn on the air pump and close the air valve. The water will be pushed into the trough. Gradually ease open the valve until the water is moving into the trough very slowly. It’s okay if it takes up to a half-hour for the air pump to push all the water out of the bottle.The goal here is to have the valve closed enough to allow adequate pressure to build inside the bottle to push the water out, but open enough to allow air to escape when the pump is off, so the water can flow back into the bottle.
Now you’re ready to add the medium and plants. We found that expanded clay or lava rock works well. Any number of plants will work in this system. Succulent herbs, such as basil and mint, are particularly easy to grow.
If you want to expand your system, simply build another trough and attach the incoming water line of the new trough to the end of the previous trough. We found that up to two modules of this size could be powered from the same pump and nutrient bottle.
Flooding and draining the system once a day should be adequate. But if you’re growing a large plant in a sunny location, you may have to set the system to flood and drain twice a day.
Materials
Air pump, Timer, Plastic tubing, 2-liter bottle, Straight through connectors, T connector, Bleed valve, Ice cube holding bin, Medium, Waterproof glue or silicon caulk, Drill


